My introduction to Southern cuisine occurred on a trip to Savannah, Ga., more than 30 years ago. It was then I tasted my first buttermilk biscuit. Just to be clear, this was not as an infant or even a teen, but well into adulthood. Until that moment, I had not thought my childhood deprived.
Oh, that biscuit. For me, a Pennsylvanian with a Yankee streak , it was a shining example of all that is gloriously Southern. At once gracious, delicate yet sturdy enough for honey or jam, mysteriously flaky and crumbly, and tender beyond all expectation. That humble biscuit placed in front of me all those years ago had an impact: I’ve spent the intervening years trying to replicate that perfection in my own kitchen. I recently returned to Savannah for a gut check: Did my own biscuit measure up?
Finding the best biscuit in a town full of them required research. Yelp, Foursquare, TripAdvisor all provided hints. I gathered three helpers (we would test eight biscuits before the day was over) and set out. To be fair, we decided we would order a straight-up biscuit (hoping for delicious jam or honey) and biscuits and gravy, two regional, deeply loved biscuit preparations.
Along the way, there were devastating travesties of biscuitness. Biscuits that resembled those from Poppin’ Fresh. Sausage patties like pucks retired from a recent hockey game. There were countless packets of food-service jam and only one place that served honey. Honestly, I wondered whether my taste memory was squirrelly. After a day of biscuit tasting, we agreed upon four truly great ones.
The best biscuit came from Back in the Day Bakery, where the air is filled with the tantalizing scent of butter and more butter. The bedazzled picture of Queen Elizabeth hanging over the cash register confirmed this was a bakery with a sense of humor. Baked goods of all sorts were beyond enticing, but the biscuit ($1.50) was a shining beacon in the pastry case. More substantial and heavier than one might imagine a biscuit should be, these softball-size butter-and-jam delivery systems were divine. The bake shop's eponymous cookbook offers the biscuit recipe, as well as one for its signature Biscone, a scone-biscuit mashup.
Our concierge and dozens of online reviews pointed us to breakfast at B. Matthew's, located across a tree-lined boulevard from tour bus parking on River Street. The biscuit at B. Matthew's ($1.50) sported a craggy, crunchy top that, though promising, revealed a texture more fluffy than flaky. The biscuits-and-gravy entree ($6.25) was generously doused with creamy, peppery, sausage-speckled gravy.
The Collins Quarter is a stylish, high-ceilinged, white-tiled charmer with deep banquettes and a cozy Australian-style "brekkie" menu. Unable to resist, we added Red Velvet Pancakes($12) to our order of a biscuit served with jam and butter ($3) and biscuits and gravy ($14) with house-made chicken sausage, gravy with bacon bits, a fennel-and-green-apple slaw and two perfectly poached eggs dashed with chili oil. The biscuit was layered, light and shot through with the tang of buttermilk. This was a biscuit to tuck into, and the strawberry jam served alongside it was sensational.
The drive to the 5 Spot Neighborhood Kitchen & Bar took us out of the city and into a suburban neighborhood. Here, the $2 biscuit had a rough top, a tender crumb and a sweet finish. Crisp, buttery and handmade (as evidenced by the humble appearance), this biscuit thrilled us. Avoid adding the sausage gravy ($6), which sadly tasted of uncooked flour, but say "yes" to cheesy grits, included in the Classic Five ($9.50) or available by request as a side dish.
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Savannah is deeply Southern: beautiful, witty, charming, flirtatious. This coastal city is dotted with parks inviting strolling with no real destination — just the pleasure of a slow walk among verdant greenery, Spanish moss and well-manicured flower displays. It’s a chance to peek in windows, gape at antebellum architecture, marvel at the cobblestone historic district. And stop to appreciate the distinct Savannah way with buttermilk biscuits.
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If you go
Where to eat
Back in the Day Bakery
2403 Bull St.
912-495-9292
Made from scratch breakfast, lunch or dessert served in a delightfully kitchy space. Get there early for the house specialty “Biscone.” Prices range from $1.50 for a biscuit to $9 for a sandwich.
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B. Matthew’s Eatery
325 E. Bay St.
912-233-1319
Dine all day in the bright and sunny bistro with polished wood, mercury glass and period lighting. Plenty of classic Southern fare – pimiento cheese, ham, grits and black eyed pea cake. Breakfast and lunch entrees $8-$12; dinner entrees from $18-$25.
The Collins Quarter
151 Bull St.
912-777-4147
Bright, spacious bistro featuring an Australian twist on classic Savannah recipes. Explore the curated beers, wines and coffees to pair with the innovative fare. Great people watching. Brunch entrees $8-$18; dinner entrees $17-$35.
The 5 Spot Neighborhood Kitchen and Bar
4430 Habersham St.
912-777-3021
A quiet, reliable neighborhood spot for a bite to eat. Terrific burgers. Easy parking. Friendly waitstaff. Breakfast $7-$11; lunch and dinner $10-12.
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